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The route and its 8 stops. Streets and river: © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Walk · Culture and censorship · on foot

Forbidden words

Cafés, churches, stages and newsrooms where people said what the censors would not allow — from “Obviously, I’ll sack him!” to “Grândola” at the Coliseu

Distance
3.5 km
Duration
1 h 55 min
Stops
8
Difficulty:
Moderate
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Stops

Map of the walk “Forbidden words”, with 8 numbered stops. The list of stops follows the map.

The stops

  1. Stop 1: : “Obviously, I’ll sack him!”Today: A Caixa Geral de Depósitos bank branch

    Praça D. Pedro IV (Rossio), Lisboa — número de polícia por confirmar

    A rectangular square seen from above, with the column of King Pedro IV in the centre, two fountains, the wave-patterned stone paving and the National Theatre in the background, between four-storey buildings.
    The Rossio (Praça de D. Pedro IV) seen from the Elevador de Santa Justa, in 2007. Szilas, Public domain

    On 10 May 1958, on the first floor of the Café Chave d’Ouro, in the Rossio, the candidacy of General Humberto Delgado for the Presidency of the Republic was presented to the press, the foreign press included. He was asked what he would do with Salazar if he were elected. “Obviously, I’ll sack him!” (Obviamente, demito-o!) — the answer set the country alight and defined the campaign.23

    The café, founded in 1919 and a meeting place for the opposition, made way for a bank branch in 1961.4

    To stop 2130 m · 2 min on foot

  2. Stop 2: : The dissidents’ caféToday: Gelo, a seafood restaurant since 2024

    Praça D. Pedro IV, 64 (Rossio), com entrada também pela Rua 1.º de Dezembro, 1100-201 Lisboa

    A bronze fountain with sculptures in the foreground, the tall column with the statue on top behind it and the paving of black and white waves, under a blue sky.
    The south fountain of the Rossio, the column of King Pedro IV and the D. Maria II National Theatre, in 2018. Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 4.0

    Between 1957 and 1962, almost thirty poets, painters and publishers used to gather in the back room of the Café Gelo — among them Herberto Helder, Mário Cesariny, Luiz Pacheco, António José Forte, Manuel de Lima and Helder Macedo. In Pirâmide (Pyramid, 1959–1960), one of the two magazines they produced, Natália Correia and Pedro Oom also wrote. They had no programme and no school, Luiz Pacheco recalled: there was “a space for socialising in complete freedom” there.5

    The meetings ended in 1962. On May Day (1 May) that year, during the demonstration that was put down in the Baixa, the police entered the café and beat up the people inside — “the sugar bowls went flying”, Luiz Pacheco recalled — and a few days later the manager told the group they could no longer stay there.5

    What you can see today

    According to Wikipedia (an unsourced passage), a plaque by the door on the Rossio side sums up the café’s history, recalling the regicide and the opposition to Salazar’s regime — to be confirmed on site.

    To stop 3210 m · 3 min on foot

  3. Stop 3: : “We see, we hear and we read”Today: Church of São Domingos

    Largo de São Domingos, 1169-060 Lisboa

    The white façade of a Baroque church, with a shaped pediment, a round clock and a cross at the top, in the late afternoon, with people passing in the square.
    The Church of São Domingos and the square in front of it, in July 2017. Palickap, CC BY-SA 4.0

    On the night of 31 December 1968, after Cardinal Cerejeira’s Mass, more than a hundred Catholics stayed on in this church in a vigil against the colonial war, until six in the morning of the World Day of Peace. For that night, Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen wrote the “Cantata da Paz” (Cantata of Peace), which Francisco Fanhais sang: “We see, we hear and we read / We cannot ignore” (Vemos, ouvimos e lemos / Não podemos ignorar).6

    Francisco Fanhais’s testimony, recorded by the Aljube Museum on 15 January 2020. Going by the museum’s keywords, he talks about the Catholics and the Church, the PIDE, the colonial war, the LUAR, protest music (música de intervenção) and censorship.

    Original page Licença padrão do YouTube — embed permitido pelo canal oficial do Museu do Aljube

    Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade, on YouTube. The player only connects to that site when you press “Watch”.

    To stop 4400 m · 6 min on foot

  4. Stop 4: : The hall that sang “Grândola”Today: Coliseu dos Recreios

    Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 92-104, 1150-268 Lisboa

    An empty auditorium, with rows of red seats in the stalls, boxes and galleries all around and the stage at the far end, beneath a dome.
    The stalls of the Coliseu dos Recreios, in 2010. Diogomedina, CC0 1.0

    On 29 March 1974 the 1st Portuguese Song Meeting (I Encontro da Canção Portuguesa) filled the Coliseu, with PIDE agents and plain-clothes police watching the stage and the audience. At the last minute, the censors cut lyrics and banned songs — among them “Venham Mais Cinco” (Let five more come) and “A Morte Saiu à Rua” (Death Went Out into the Street), by José Afonso.7 José Afonso then sang “Grândola, Vila Morena” (Grândola, swarthy town), the hall sang with him, and at the end thousands of people shouted “Down with repression!” (abaixo a repressão!).8

    Less than a month later, the same song went out on the radio as the signal for the revolution.

    José Afonso sings “Grândola, Vila Morena” (Grândola, swarthy town) at the Coliseu dos Recreios concert of 29 January 1983, in an excerpt published by the José Afonso Association. It was one of the singer’s last great concerts, when he was already ill, and the song that had served as the signal for 25 April was sung together with the audience.

    Original page Licença padrão do YouTube — embed permitido pelo canal oficial da Associação José Afonso

    Associação José Afonso, on YouTube. The player only connects to that site when you press “Watch”.

    To stop 51.2 km · 20 min on foot

  5. Stop 5: : The prize that closed the writers’ houseRua da Escola Politécnica, 20, 1.º Esq., 1250 Lisboa

    Rua da Escola Politécnica, 20, 1.º Esq., 1250 Lisboa

    A wide, straight street between old three- and four-storey buildings, with tram tracks, parked cars and leafless trees.
    Rua da Escola Politécnica, where the headquarters of the Portuguese Society of Writers stood, in 2017. Dguendel, CC BY 4.0

    In May 1965, a jury of the Portuguese Society of Writers — Alexandre Pinheiro Torres, Augusto Abelaira, Fernanda Botelho, João Gaspar Simões and Manuel da Fonseca — gave the Grand Prize for Fiction to Luuanda, by José Luandino Vieira, who was imprisoned at Tarrafal for his links to the People’s Movement for the Liberation of Angola (MPLA).9

    On 21 May the Minister of National Education dissolved the Society. That night its headquarters, on the first floor of No. 20 on this street, were broken into and ransacked by “unknown persons” backed by the PIDE, who left a sign at the door: “Terrorists’ agency in the Metropole” (Agência dos terroristas na Metrópole). Three of the jurors were arrested; Fernanda Botelho, the only woman on the jury, was questioned.910

    To stop 6650 m · 10 min on foot

  6. Stop 6: : “From woman to woman”Today: Palácio Lançada, Rua de O Século

    Rua de O Século, 41-59 e 61-63, 1200-433 Lisboa

    A long, gently sloping street between three- and four-storey buildings painted yellow, green and white, with cars parked along one side, under a cloudy sky.
    Rua de O Século, where the newspaper’s newsroom was, in December 2019. Sergei Gussev, CC BY 2.0

    This palace housed the newspaper O Século (The Century). In 1908 Virgínia Quaresma, one of the first Portuguese women reporters, joined its newsroom.11 Twenty years later, Maria Lamas took charge of its supplement Modas e Bordados (Fashions and Embroidery), written “from woman to woman”; in 1930 she organised the exhibition “Portuguese Women” (Mulheres Portuguesas) here, under the slogan “Let us be intelligently women” (Sejamos inteligentemente mulheres).1213

    In 1947 the regime forced her to choose between the magazine and the National Council of Portuguese Women, which she chaired. She chose the Council.14

    An Antena 1 programme, made in partnership with the Clube dos Jornalistas (Journalists’ Club), in which two journalists tell of their 25 April — Maria Antónia Palla, who was then working at “O Século”, and Fernanda Mestrinho, of the “Diário de Lisboa”, who was at the release of the political prisoners from Caxias. On YouTube, the sound plays over a still image.

    Original page Licença padrão do YouTube — embed permitido pelo canal oficial da Antena 1 (RTP)

    RTP – Antena 1, on YouTube. The player only connects to that site when you press “Listen”.

    To stop 7600 m · 9 min on foot

  7. Stop 7: : The newspaper that did not send its proofsRua da Misericórdia, 116, 1200-271 Lisboa

    Rua da Misericórdia, 116, 1200-271 Lisboa

    Black-and-white photograph of a newsroom full of desks with papers, typewriters and lamps, with journalists at work and posters on the walls.
    The newsroom of the newspaper “República”, according to the caption in the Anefo archive, on 11 February 1975 — three months before the “República affair”. Photograph by Rob Mieremet. Rob Mieremet / Anefo, CC0 1.0

    At No. 116 Rua da Misericórdia stood República, the daily of the democratic opposition — almost opposite the censorship office, which had been working at No. 125 since 1969.15 Two of its journalists, Álvaro Guerra and Carlos Albino, put the Armed Forces Movement (MFA) in touch with the radio programme that would broadcast the signal for the revolution.1715

    On 25 April 1974 its editor, Raul Rego, refused to send the proofs to the “Prior Examination”. The paper came out with a line at the foot of the front page: “This newspaper has not been vetted by any Censorship Commission” (Este jornal não foi visado por qualquer Comissão de Censura).15

    To stop 8270 m · 4 min on foot

  8. Stop 8: : The first woman reporterRua do Norte, 3 (esquina com a Praça de Luís de Camões), Lisboa

    Rua do Norte, 3 (esquina com a Praça de Luís de Camões), Lisboa

    A narrow street between pale four-storey buildings, seen from a corner, with a bank branch on the ground floor on the right.
    Rua do Norte, next to Praça de Luís de Camões, in March 2020. Daniel, CC BY 2.0

    In 1910 Virgínia Quaresma moved to A Capital (The Capital), the republican evening daily whose newsroom was at No. 3 Rua do Norte, on this corner; she went to live right opposite.11 It was A Capital that, on 29 April 1911, printed the ruling that ordered Carolina Beatriz Ângelo to be registered as a voter, and called it “a victory for national feminism”.18

    In August that year, Virgínia told the paper that she loved her profession and wanted to see other women earning their living in journalism.11

Notes on the sources1
  • The exact spot of the former Café Chave d’Ouro in the Rossio: the stop is placed in the square.

Do you know more, or do you have a document? Tell us.

Sources18
  1. 1Os censores da imprensa (Joaquim Cardoso Gomes), JJ – Jornalismo & Jornalistas n.º 57, jan./jun. 2014. Clube de Jornalistas (PDF no Centro de Documentação 25 de Abril, Univ. Coimbra) — consulted on 2 October 2026
  2. 2Delgado: Um vendaval varreu o País (João Paulo Guerra). esquerda.net — consulted on 2 October 2026
  3. 3Candidatura de Humberto Delgado – uma jornada de resistência. Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade (EGEAC) — consulted on 2 October 2026
  4. 4Café Chave d'Ouro. Restos de Colecção (blogue) — consulted on 2 October 2026
  5. 5Joana Emídio Marques, Café Gelo: os 60 anos de um grupo que nunca existiu. Observador, 2017 — consulted on 3 October 2026
  6. 6A Vigília de São Domingos. Comissão Comemorativa 50 Anos 25 de Abril — consulted on 2 October 2026
  7. 7Pedro Tadeu, «Fascistas! Fascistas!» gritaram cinco mil pessoas no Coliseu, no mês antes de Abril. Mensagem de Lisboa, 2024 — consulted on 3 October 2026
  8. 8Canção Intervenção, 28/03/1974 (cronologia). Associação 25 de Abril — consulted on 2 October 2026
  9. 9Breve memorial da Sociedade Portuguesa de Escritores (SPE). Associação Portuguesa de Escritores — consulted on 2 October 2026
  10. 10Como a PIDE destruiu a Sociedade Portuguesa de Escritores. RTP Ensina — consulted on 2 October 2026
  11. 11A primeira jornalista de reportagem portuguesa numa rua de Caselas. Toponímia de Lisboa (Câmara Municipal de Lisboa) — consulted on 2 October 2026
  12. 12Maria Lamas. Wikipédia — consulted on 2 October 2026
  13. 13Maria Lamas, a ativista pelos direitos das mulheres (Virgínia Baptista, IHC – NOVA FCSH). RUN – Repositório da Universidade Nova de Lisboa — consulted on 2 October 2026
  14. 14Mulheres pela Igualdade (biografias). CIG – Comissão para a Cidadania e a Igualdade de Género — consulted on 2 October 2026
  15. 15O jornal República e a Rua da Misericórdia. Toponímia de Lisboa, 2019 — consulted on 2 October 2026
  16. 16Sede do Jornal República (Lugares de Abril). Associação 25 de Abril — consulted on 2 October 2026
  17. 17Preparativos para a transmissão da senha, 23/04/1974 (cronologia). Associação 25 de Abril — consulted on 2 October 2026
  18. 18Carolina Beatriz Ângelo. Assembleia da República — consulted on 2 October 2026

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